The actuator is wired by the way of the floor shifter. Fired up the truck and it engaged the 4 wheel drive instantly. Does this mean that since my 'burb is a '99 model that I already have an electric actuator? Aftermarket tie-rod sleeves from companies like and simply thread onto the factory tie rods and keep them from flexing. I replaced the actuator on her Tahoe last fall. I received the part, and installation was pretty easy. Three of the five wires are cut short, the other two are still connected to the plug.
There are some cheap parts on it like the little clamp to hold the cable. I recently bought a 1995 Chevy half-ton 4x4 to get me through the unpredictable weather and back roads of Nebraska. There is a trust washer that will fall down if the tube is not removed. Age, damage, and lack of consistent use are the most common reasons for these actuators to go bad. So now I'm left with with older thermal actuator but with all the newer wiring. Valid on orders shipped in the contiguous United States. Do any of you have a recommendation for what I should replace it with? I have one of each the new style and old style front actuator kicking around and was wondering how each works when wired up.
Of course it was going to have a few problems with it being 14 years old. From what I've read so far, the posi-lok is pretty reliable but if there's an actuator that is just as reliable and easier to install, why take the time and effort to install the posi-lok right? Our manufacturer changed the mixture of gas in this new actuator so it is more sensitive at lower temperatures. Here's my post from another forum from a few months ago. The new style has four pins i think! Start there and examine the harness closely looking for anything added or hacked into. Something does not add up, nothing happens! Your truck knowledge is missing! Order total can be a mix of all eligible brands.
It includes the correct adapter harness for trouble free installation! The first thing to check is the 4x4fuse if it is bad replace it. The posi-lok works but the truck needs to be moving to engage it. Compatible with various Chevrolet models, this direct-fit actuating unit just needs to be screwed in for fast and easy installation. There is also 1 splice you have to make I made mine in the cab to keep it protected. Unscreww the actuater out of the front axle, put it in 4wd, with the key in the run position, does the actuater get longer? The biggest issue right now is that I've determined the 4wd actuator has seen better days and it's time to get a new one.
Make sure you get the electric one. Guaranteed to last and work well for a long time, this is covered by a lifetime Dorman limited warranty. Did you remove the axletube while replacing the axle? However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. I recently bought a 1995 Chevy half-ton 4x4 to get me through the unpredictable weather and back roads of Nebraska. Offer excludes truck freight and oversize fees. I recall you working with this a long time ago Mike.
Not a big deal to put in, super simple, and therefore super reliable. I just replaced the one on my 1994 a few weeks ago. Disconnect the motor arm from the transfer case and see if you can move the shift rod by hand. Is there an actuator out there that is of better quality and will last longer or would I just be better off going and getting the 4X4 Posi-Lok? I put a posi-lok on my dads truck, I think I would go with a electric myself. But the Posi-Lok system stays locked even when the ignition is off. Of course it was going to have a few problems with it being 14 years old.
Had one in my 89 and loved it. I am very pleased with the overall purchasing experience with 1A Auto. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case. For more information, go to www. The bumpstop is also relocated to the A-arm in order to increase suspension travel, which alleviates the harsh ride that surfaces with the torsion bars fully cranked. There is a mechanical mechanism that can start to stick as time goes on. Does anyone have a diagram of what each pin does? Replacing the actuator itself took about 10 minutes.
Do any of you have a recommendation for what I should replace it with? I don't want to experiment and fry the thing! Is there an actuator out there that is of better quality and will last longer or would I just be better off going and getting the 4X4 Posi-Lok? From what I've read so far, the posi-lok is pretty reliable but if there's an actuator that is just as reliable and easier to install, why take the time and effort to install the posi-lok right? If you've run the older thermo style one for any length of time you know they're not the fastest thing, especially when the axle and actuator is packed with snow or it's very cold out. If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. For more information, go to www. First off, this is my first post and probably won't be the last. Even with that snag, I would still rate it overall as excellent. Does anyone have a diagram of what each pin does? This unit does not come with a relay but has the following components and specifications: 12 volts, 2 terminals, female connector, and male mini-blade terminal. Somewhere you're going to discover something.