I wasted 4 hours trying to remove the dipstick tube at the point the service manual said by fiddling with the stud from the top. Remove the 2 driver's side connectors at the transmission shifter. With my right hand on the extension and my left hand down behind the engine and on the bracket I pushed down on the extension until the tube was seated and the bracket was roughly in place. If anyone knows of something I missed or have some more details nut sizes, etc they would like for me to add, just let me know and I will include it. The universal joint, which is on the front facing side of your rear end, has 4 bolts.
If you are towing something with your car or carrying a heavy load, you will need more torque. Remove the 2 nuts and washers holding the transmission mount to the cross member. Flip the transmission shifter into neutral - 2 clicks back from all the way forward which is park. Remove the bottom 3 bolts of the transfer case. The same happens in reverse. I used the longer bolts in the bottom holes tightening a little one each side to pull the trans partly together. Make sure you always carry transmission fluid in the vehicle to prevent it from overheating.
Without multiple gears, the car could not stop quickly and smoothly. Requires reprogramming when valve bodies are replaced. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the wire bracket on this side top of the transmission. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the catalytic converter heat shield to the transmission. Requires reprogramming when valve bodies are replaced. Remove the transfer case skid plate by turning the nuts on top of the 4 skid plate bolts 15mm I think until the whole bolt spun then hold the bolts with a torx bit I could get much more solid loosening force on the nuts than on the torx bolts. An automatic transmission switches between gears automatically and the driver does not have to do anything.
But, it must be angled the same as the car is if the front of the car is raised for instance. From below set the end of the tube into the transmission tube gasket. Be careful to ensure the trans is straight and the guide pins are seating, the bell housing is just aluminum and any binding could risk damaging the transmission case. Make alignment marks on the rear drive shaft and the differential yoke. Mine took longer 3 days as I didn't have these instructions to start, had to backtrack some steps, the service manual steps are vague.
Slide the halves together and remove the front drive shaft if the shaft will not slide together, spray more penetrant on it now, then remove it along with the transfer case - make sure your not under it when it falls. If you are towing something with your car or carrying a heavy load, you will need more torque. I also spent an inordinate amount of time with frozen exhaust and other nuts. The same happens in reverse. The manual is sometimes known as standard. Drain the transfer case fluid. He or she does this by manipulating the clutch which is on the right of the driver in most manual transmission cars.
Pull up on the top of the dipstick tube in the engine compartment to remove just thought of this but didn't do it - might be easier if possible to stick brybar against the bracket and tap it up with a hammer. It would take a long time as power would be greatly limited. Push the shaft forward to clear the yoke, tip it down, then pull it to the rear until the front yoke slips out of the transmission probably get some fluid out of the rear of the transmission and the front of the drive shaft. If cars were built with only one gear, then it would be very difficult for them to accelerate from a dead stop. Once down to the last few bolts loosen them, lift the pan back into place, and remove the remaining bolts. Make alignment marks on the flywheel and the torque converter.
I'm removing the whole transmission anyway so this seemed like a better place for this step. The same happens in reverse. Make sure you always carry transmission fluid in the vehicle to prevent it from overheating. Remove the remaining top 1. Should help out a lot of people! It transmits power throughout the vehicle, primarily from the engine to the various axles which get the car or truck going. Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts.
Remove alternating bolts first on one side of the starting corner then on the other. Sure could have used this write up last Summer! Without multiple gears, the car could not stop quickly and smoothly. These slips don't slide straight in they sit in a detent on one or the other end and then rotate to stretch and clip in place. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable and clip off the transmission shifter. Turn the flywheel and remove the other 2 bolts. Manual transmissions should last for the life of the car, unless the driver is inexperienced and rides the clutch too much. Pinch the black clip where the shift cable passes thru the bracket and pull the shift cable rearward out of the bracket.
Reinstall the pan with just a couple of bolts. Blow air into the line that joins the top of the radiator so gravity can assist in removing any contaminants that might remain from the previous trans problems. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the top above the shifter and side just in front of the output tube of the transfer case don't pull on the wires. Remove the transmission pan 13mm bolts starting at one corner. Most two-wheel drive cars and trucks only have one connection.