When you have it all the races on the axle part way, screw on the new collar nut. Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one. Would i need to re-pack them with bearing grease before installing them? Need to buy parts for this project? Sold individually 2 required per car. Do not remove the nylon ring. As you slowly put the hub on the stub axle, you'll notice the stub axle forcing the nylon ring out.
We now must remove the brake rotors. Once removed, you will see the collar nut exposed. The front side will have a sleeve adapter that will allow for enough space for the bearing to be pushed into it. Finish it off with a chisel. A smart trick that Randy suggests is to keep the tire on the hub and the collar nut on the inner race and yank on the tire a few times.
It is not yet a constant issue wouldn't do it when I took it to my mechanic, but it's starting to happen more and more, and it has me worried. They can help you find the right part, and give you a price on shipping. Could you clarify a bit, as to where to place the puller arms, etc? But I did get a good bearing in. For me it was the driver side bearing that was bad, and the noise during turning only appeared when turning left. I'm curious why you need someone to apply brakes while towing the main axle nut.
Now you will be able to pull the brake calipers off the mounting bracket. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake lines, you may rip the lines. Otherwise, youll press the hub into one inner race and press out the other inner race. Jack the car up again. March 5, 2013 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The tool grabs the axle threads and pull the shaft into the bearing.
This entry was posted on June 6, 2017 at 4:47 pm and is filed under. It's not always load dependant but turning the car side to side will affect the noise normally for a wheel bearing so they were right with that check yourself, start swinging side-to-side down the road and see if the noise gets louder. You will now see a large nut inside with a pin driven inside the axle shaft. Remove the screws and pull the rotors off the hubs. If there is noticeable movement, it's best to change the wheel bearings immediately, before they become more than just an annoying sound and leave you and your E30 stranded on the road. July 14, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sealed hubs a greased and require no maintenance.
If your lucky your hub will come off complete. Bend the tab back outwards using the chisel. Click on the thumbnails for larger pictures. Depending on the condition of the bearing rear dust protector, you might want to replace it now Also, even though it is not necessary to remove the disc dust shield, this is a good chance to clean it and repaint it or replace it if necessary. If you want to race your car you need to invest in the necessary equipment to do the work.
Remove these bolts and pull the calipers off. If you use a metal hammer as pictured below, do little soft taps. If you're going racing with a 26+ year old car, it just makes sense to replace worn out items. Hanging it from the shock with a wire hanger also works well. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry this pin back and out of the axle shaft.
Some people use a small chisel to brake it off, I managed to bend it back with a small screwdriver and a a mallet. I would think it's something related to the calipers and the discs then. I'm also going to do the other side tomorrow. Luckily my inner race came off cleanly, making this an easy job. Use lots of lube and maybe lightly sand down the surfaces of the hub so it will slide in better. Remove the rotor by unscrewing the 6mm countersunk hex bolts. It will rest on the bearing tunnel; indicated in yellow.