I intend to fit the replacement block but rebuild the old block if possible ready to fit if required. In my case when I have used the emergency air up I always pull the fuse just for assurance that it will be locked down. Clean the o-ring, wedge the brass washer back into the backside of the connector and you just might be good to go with them again. Dealer determined electrical wire coating rubbed off and causing faults for last repair. Nothing else in the valve block other than the actual pipe connections will cause a corner to drop. Air reservoir had small leak, additional small parts replaced, pump replaced under warranty. But if solenoid seat valves are leaking extra pressure against them would certainly leak past them.
I just don't know if people would pay the price. Or at least a redundancy. Backup sensor damaged by parking lot bump, replaced. Install new Voss connectors to the air suspension front solenoid valve block. Or at least a redundancy. The coil conversion offers simplicity and reliability but brings it's own set of problems. Multiple other fixes prior to wire discovery.
I think the best method to try and save your old connectors would be the following: 1. For additional information, refer to Fender Splash Shield 76. Datatek and wammers Thanks for your comments. Think I am with Datatek on the air bags? Is it really an Arduino? They I had my failure. Instead of the arduino, you could have 4 toggle switches spliced into the system; one for each bag. Would think compressor failed feeding a leak.
I'm doing it now in a Robotics class. Initially when I thought it was only the front acting up I thought perhaps the front air block by the passenger front wheel had a bad connection and wasn't working correctly. Also see if the air bags are in good condition? I have considered the coils but I don't want to make the switch. If the computer were programmed to accept greater values for distance on wheel drop, and default to maximum height in case of a suspension fault, it would solve all of the issues. I have been experiencing problems with the air suspension system on my 2001 P38.
Mentioned Sirius reception problem and 'knocking' from the front end. We just need the computer out of the equation. Replaced with new wheel bearing. I think the answer would be in the form of adjustable coil-overs. Today started off with I5 closed through Stockton for an accident fatality? The valve block has been declared faulty and a good second hand replacement has been sourced. That is a leak past the small O'ring at the base of the solenoid seat or the seal on the bottom of the solenoid shaft itself. You would also need custom valve shocks to match the increased spring rate.
Shop monitored it and let me know that it wasn't an issue yet. Use a small flathead screwdriver or something similar to wedge in the washer split and open the brass washer up a little bit. But the rear end still unpredictably deflates. I don't think it would be l't all that hard to work out the pin-outs for the various valve solenoids and the compressor is just a simple +12v. Release the valve block 3 rubber insulators. Raise and support the vehicle. The hard core guys usually lead the charge on developing parts and the fact is you'll never make a rock crawler out of one of these.
Of course then you run into tire clearance issues and it's not easy to trim the bodywork on these. Replaced both wheel hub assemblies. More likely to be airbags leaking or even a height sensor. The front valve block is pretty easy to find, but when I needed to remove the rear block, although there were detailed videos on stripping and cleaning the block itself, I couldn't find anything telling me where the block actually is. They'll be able to link up with the air suspension ecm and hopefully get it sorted out.
? Extra pressure against the small base O'rings could effectively seal them but unlikely. In some cases if the fault is related to the compressor or reserve tank. Leak from this usually caused by a crusty build up of desiccant from a failing drier. Remove and discard the collet and the union. Intermediate shaft binding, failed U-joint. As Datatek says full height setting could seal a leak but I was sugesting you spray and inspect the bags at all settings.
In other words I'd loose about 2. Power Steering fluid level was low and making growling noises. I didn't count on the control module failing to pass the signals to the valve blocks. If it's the valve block a new set of O rings will fix it. Instead of the arduino, you could have 4 toggle switches spliced into the system; one for each bag.